I killed my first terrarium in about three weeks, and it wasn’t because I picked ugly plants. I picked a cactus for a sealed glass jar, which, in hindsight, is a bit like putting a desert animal in a rainforest and wondering why it’s struggling. The plant itself wasn’t the problem. The setup was.
That’s really the whole secret to picking the best terrarium plants: it’s less about which ones are prettiest and more about matching the plant to whether your container is open or closed. Get that right first, and almost everything else falls into place.
Open or Closed? Why This Decides Everything First
Before picking a single plant, figure out which category your container falls into, because it changes everything downstream.
The Humidity Rule
A closed or mostly sealed terrarium traps moisture inside. Water that evaporates off the soil and leaves has nowhere to go, so the air inside stays consistently humid. That environment is perfect for tropical plants that evolved in rainforest understories, but it’s a slow death sentence for anything that prefers to dry out between waterings.
An open terrarium is the opposite: air moves freely, moisture escapes, and the environment stays drier overall. That’s exactly what succulents, cacti, and air plants want, and exactly what tropical humidity-lovers can’t tolerate long-term.
Once you know which side of that line your container sits on, the plant list narrows itself considerably.
Top Picks for Closed, Humidity-Loving Terrariums
These are the plants I reach for again and again in sealed or mostly-sealed containers, since they handle the constant moisture without rotting or stretching out.
Fittonia: The All-Around Favorite
If I had to recommend one plant to someone who’s never built a terrarium before, it’s this one. Fittonia, sometimes called the nerve plant, comes in bright pink, red, and white vein patterns, stays compact, and tolerates a bit of neglect better than almost anything else on this list. It’s genuinely hard to mess up.
Boston Fern: Easiest Fern to Start With
Ferns bring texture that nothing else quite replicates, and Boston fern is the forgiving entry point. Some of the more delicate fern varieties are fussy about exact humidity levels, but this one handles a bit of inconsistency without sulking.
Creeping Fig: For Climbing and Coverage
This one takes its time, but that’s part of the appeal. Creeping fig slowly climbs whatever background surface it’s given, moss walls, cork bark, glass, and fills in with small, dense leaves that look intentional rather than sparse.
Peperomia: Easiest to Propagate
I’ve had more luck expanding a terrarium with Peperomia cuttings than with almost any other genus. Varieties like string of turtles can be rootlessly propagated, just lay a cutting on top of moss and it takes root on its own over time.
Cushion Moss: The Green Carpet
Moss does more visual work per square inch than any other terrarium plant. Cushion moss specifically forms round, bouncy mounds that read as rolling hills or grassy ground cover, and it can single-handedly make an otherwise sparse terrarium look finished.
Top Picks for Open, Drier Terrariums
Open containers need an entirely different plant vocabulary, and reaching for anything on the closed-terrarium list here usually ends badly.
Air Plants: No Soil Needed
Tillandsia doesn’t root in soil at all, it absorbs moisture directly from the air, which makes it about as low-maintenance as terrarium plants get. Tuck one into a crevice in a piece of driftwood or stone and it needs little beyond occasional misting.
Succulents and Cacti: Bright Light, Minimal Water
These need strong drainage, bright light, and airflow, all things an open container provides and a sealed one doesn’t. Use a gritty, fast-draining substrate rather than standard terrarium soil, and go easy on watering.
African Violets: A Touch of Color
For an open terrarium that wants a bit of bloom rather than just foliage, African violets bring small, colorful flowers as long as they get enough ambient light. They’re a nice change of pace from the green-on-green look most open terrariums default to.
Picking by What You Actually Need
Sometimes the deciding factor isn’t open versus closed, it’s a specific role the plant needs to fill in the design.
Tallest Option: For Height and Structure
Asparagus fern brings vertical structure that most low-growing terrarium plants can’t, with feathery fronds that cast small shadows across whatever’s beneath them, almost like a miniature tree canopy.
Most Colorful: For a Standout Look
Begonia varieties bring richer, more varied color than almost anything else that tolerates terrarium conditions, though they’re a touch trickier to establish than Fittonia. Worth the extra attention if color is the priority.
Most Budget-Friendly Pick
Spike moss looks like moss but divides far more easily, which means one plant can stretch across several terrariums instead of just one. It’s an easy way to fill space without buying multiples of anything expensive.
Centerpiece Plant for a Focal Point
Ficus ginseng, with its gnarled, tree-like root ball, works as an instant focal point in a way flat foliage plants don’t. One plant does the job a whole arrangement would otherwise need to do.
Smallest Option: For Tiny Containers
For anything vial-sized or smaller, turtle vine’s tiny leaves and purple-tinted stems fit a scale that most other terrarium plants simply can’t shrink down to.
Quick Reference Table: Plant, Setup Type, and Best Use
| Plant | Best Setup | Best Use |
|---|---|---|
| Fittonia | Closed | All-around beginner pick |
| Boston Fern | Closed | Texture and depth |
| Creeping Fig | Closed | Climbing and background coverage |
| Peperomia | Closed | Easy propagation |
| Cushion Moss | Closed | Ground cover |
| Air Plants | Open | Low-maintenance, no soil |
| Succulents/Cacti | Open | Bright, dry conditions |
| African Violets | Open | Color and bloom |
A Few Mistakes Worth Avoiding
A handful of mistakes account for most terrarium failures I’ve seen, including my own early ones.
Putting a succulent or cactus in a sealed container is probably the most common, and it’s almost always fatal within a few weeks, the trapped humidity rots the roots before anything else goes wrong. Overcrowding a small container is another, cramming in too many plants leaves no room for growth and makes airflow worse in already-humid closed setups. And skipping drainage material in an open terrarium tends to cause root rot just as fast as putting the wrong plant in a closed one, dry-loving plants still need excess water somewhere to go.
Picking the Best Terrarium Plants Comes Down to One Decision
If there’s one thing worth remembering out of all this, it’s that the open-versus-closed question matters more than any individual plant on this list. A gorgeous Begonia in the wrong setup will struggle just as much as a cactus dropped into a sealed jar. Get that first decision right, match the plant to the environment rather than the other way around, and almost any combination from here works out fine.
FAQ Section
What are the best terrarium plants for beginners?
Fittonia is the most forgiving option for closed terrariums, tolerating inconsistent watering and light better than most tropical plants, while air plants are the easiest entry point for open setups since they don’t need soil at all.
Can succulents go in a terrarium?
Yes, but only in an open container with good airflow and drainage. Sealed terrariums trap humidity that will rot a succulent’s roots within weeks.
What plants work in a closed terrarium?
Tropical, humidity-loving plants like Fittonia, ferns, creeping fig, Peperomia, and moss all thrive in the consistently damp conditions a sealed container creates.
How do I know if my terrarium is open or closed?
A closed terrarium has a lid or is mostly sealed, trapping moisture inside. An open terrarium, like a bowl or an uncovered jar, allows air and moisture to escape freely.
What terrarium plants need the least maintenance?
Air plants are among the lowest-maintenance options overall, since they don’t need soil and only require occasional misting or soaking.
Jack Rivers is the founder of Plantsopedia, dedicated to making plant care simple, science-backed, and accessible for everyone. With a deep interest in botanical care and plant psychology, he specializes in rare tropical species and organic growth techniques, helping enthusiasts understand the soil, light, and biology behind every thriving plant. When he’s not experimenting with new propagation methods, Jack is busy turning complex horticultural science into practical, everyday advice for home gardeners